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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.